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How to choose motorcycle handlebars that improve your ergonomics and reduce fatigue?

How do you choose motorcycle handlebars that improve ergonomics and reduce fatigue?
Vlasta Chalupný a Jiří Fulín
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6.05.2026
tips
Have you ever ridden a few laps on the track or spent an hour in the woods and felt your hands start to go numb? Many riders have experienced that feeling—when your forearms burn, your fingers go numb, and you feel like you’re just holding onto the bike rather than controlling it. Many of them then blame it on a lack of physical fitness. However, poor ergonomics and improperly chosen handlebars are often to blame.


In this article, we’ll therefore look at how to adjust your riding position and handlebars so that the bike doesn’t tire you out, and what to watch out for with specific Austrian models.




Source: https://marketing.acerbis.it/gallery/10052-offroad/10199-mx-gear/172-mx-x-flex-two#galleryD-5

The Key to Choosing Handlebars: Height, Width, and Riding Style
The ideal motorcycle handlebars must match your body type and allow for a natural riding position, with your elbows slightly bent and your wrists in line with your forearms. While in motocross you’re looking for a more aggressive, lower grip for better feel in corners, in enduro and adventure riding you’ll appreciate a higher position that provides relief during long periods standing on the footpegs. With brands like KTM and Husqvarna, you also need to account for the fact that their front end is structurally higher (a combination of longer forks and different front-end geometry) than that of their Japanese competitors, which requires a slightly flatter handlebar profile.

TIP: If your current handlebars are significantly wider than 800 mm and you don’t feel comfortable in corners, try trimming a few millimeters off each side. You’ll see that the bike will start leaning into corners with much less resistance.

What parameters should you look for in the tables?
When looking at MX handlebar specifications, don’t get confused by the sea of numbers. Focus on these four:

  • Width: The standard for adult motorcycles is around 800 mm.
  • Height: Determines how high your hands will be relative to the handlebar mounts on the bike. Key for your stance on the footpegs.
  • Rise: Indicates the total height of the handlebars from the center to the grip. The greater the rise, the more upright your stance.
  • Sweep: Indicates how much the ends curve toward you. A small sweep (straighter bar) forces you to keep your elbows up, which is ideal for motocross.
Indicates the total height of the handlebars from the center to the grip. The higher the value, the more upright the riding position.

Handlebar clamps and tapered handlebars
Historically, 22mm (or 7/8-inch) handlebars were the standard for motorcycles. This design is characterized by having the same diameter along its entire length and requires reinforcement to maintain stiffness. The element providing this reinforcement is the handlebar crossbar, which, while it looks rugged and allows for the mounting of a navigation device or foam protector, is very stiff.

Modern MX handlebars in an oversized design (28.6 mm), however, lack a crossbar. Why? Because the tapered shape (thicker in the middle, thinner at the ends) allows the aluminum to flex slightly.

Advantages of tapered handlebars
  • They better absorb micro-vibrations and dampen hard impacts during landings.
  • Thanks to the absence of a crossbar, shocks are not transmitted as much to the palms, which significantly delays the onset of unpleasant arm pump (stiffening of the forearms).
  • These handlebars are made from 7000 series aluminum alloy (often 7010 T6), which has high tensile strength (over 500 MPa), so they can withstand even brutal crashes.
Specifics for KTM and Husqvarna: Neken and ProTaper

If you ride an Austrian machine, you have to expect that the distance from the front wheel axle to the upper fork clamp is greater than on competing models. That’s why lower and flatter bends are often used with these brands.
  • KTM: They come standard with Neken handlebars, which are extremely stiff. Great for pros, but hobby riders may quickly tire of them.
  • Husqvarna: Here you’ll typically find ProTaper, which feels more comfortable and softer.
Although Neken may seem stiffer compared to ProTaper, it always depends on the specific model and bend, and this isn’t necessarily a rule.

Handlebar risers and stem
If you’re over 185 cm tall, you’re likely hunching over the bike in a standing position. The first solution is handlebar risers, which are essentially spacers under the clamps.

  • Handlebar risers: They raise the grip by 15 to 30 mm. It’s a cheap and quick solution, but watch out for the length of the cables and hoses—when you turn the handlebars all the way, they shouldn’t be taut.
  • Handlebar stems: These allow not only for raising the handlebars but also for moving them forward or backward. This is key to creating space in the cockpit so your knees don’t bang into the handlebars during aggressive riding.
Fun fact: Some pros (like Billy Bolt) prefer to use lowered footpegs instead of high handlebars because it doesn’t compromise the bike’s center of gravity.

Quick Installation Guide
1. Preparation and Documentation
Before you take anything apart, take a photo on your phone showing where the cables and brake hoses run. This will save you a lot of time when reassembling. Remember that whenever you raise or change the geometry, the cables must not be taut when the handlebars are turned to their maximum angle.

2. Cleanliness and Centering
  • The surfaces in the clamps and the center of the handlebars must be perfectly clean and free of grease.
  • Use the markings in the center of the tube for precise centering.
  • Apply a light coat of anti-seize paste or lubricant to the screw threads and under the heads; this will ensure a more precise tightening torque.
3. Specific Tightening Procedure (Gap Rule)
For KTM and Husqvarna models, the procedure for tightening the clamps is critically important. In most cases, one side of the clamps is higher than the other.

  • First, tighten the bolts on the side that makes “metal-to-metal” contact with the lower section (often the front bolts marked with an arrow).
  • Tighten the rear bolts, where a gap remains visible, to 19–25 Nm using a torque wrench.
  • Never try to completely close the gap at the rear, as you could irreversibly damage the handlebars.
4. Adjusting the controls and throttle
  • Throttle: Leave a small gap (approx. 1–2 mm) between the end of the handlebars and the inner part of the throttle grip so that the throttle does not catch on the handlebars or the end of the tube.
  • Levers: Adjust them so that they form a straight line with your forearm when you’re standing.
  • Play: Do not tighten the brake and clutch lever clamps all the way. They should be able to be turned by hand. In the event of a fall, the lever on the handlebars will simply rotate instead of snapping.
5. Grips and Safety
If you are not using a lock-on system, clean the ends of the handlebars with rubbing alcohol. Regular hairspray works great as an adhesive—it holds once dry, but don’t forget to secure the grips with stainless steel wire in the grooves provided.



Source: https://marketing.acerbis.it/gallery/10050-racing/10195-motocross/528-round-1---bariloche--argentina---2026#galleryD-1

Investing in comfort pays off in every turn
Choosing handlebars isn’t just about matching the color to your bike. It’s about how long you can stay fully focused while in the saddle or on the footpegs. The right stiffness and profile will save you a lot of energy, which you can then devote to your riding technique. Don’t forget that even the best handlebars need reliable handguards, because grips not only protect your fingers but also, in the event of a fall, the expensive levers on the handlebars.

Whether you’re tuning a race bike or an expedition enduro, use common sense and listen to your body.

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