How to replace plastics on a motorcycle and give it a new look

WHAT IS WORTH REPLACING, WHAT TO REPAIR AND WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR

With off-road riding, sooner or later the plastics are bound to take a beating. One fall in a rut, a tree in the woods or simply dropping the bike on a rocky climb is enough to leave a crack, a deep scratch or a broken mounting tab. And sometimes it is not just about appearance. Old plastics become brittle from sunlight over time, start cracking around the bolts and, after a few seasons, no longer stay in place as they should.

The good news is that replacing the plastics is not particularly difficult, and most riders can do it at home in the garage in a single afternoon.

Source: https://marketing.acerbis.it/gallery/10125-motorbikes/10578-honda/450-honda-crf-250-r-2024#galleryD-1

WHEN DOES IT MAKE SENSE TO REPLACE THE PLASTICS?

Minor scratches or scuffs are normal in motocross and enduro. There is no need to deal with every mark left by riding.

New plastics make sense when:

• the plastic is cracking around the bolts,
• the parts no longer stay securely in place,
• the material is hard and brittle,
• or the bike simply looks tired after years of use.

This is especially common with:

• radiator shrouds,
• side panels,
• rear fenders,
• and front number plates.

OEM OR AFTERMARKET?

Almost everyone has to make this decision.

Original OEM plastics usually fit perfectly, but they are considerably more expensive. High-quality aftermarket parts work very well today, and with established brands the difference is usually minimal.

For example Acerbis has long been one of the most commonly used options:

• good fit,
• quality material,
• and colour that is not merely painted onto the surface.

WHY CHOOSE ACERBIS PLASTICS?

Acerbis has been one of the world's leading manufacturers of plastics for motocross and enduro motorcycles for decades. Most plastic parts are manufactured in Italy, where the company uses its own blend of plastic materials. It combines high strength with flexibility, helping the plastics withstand impacts and normal use in demanding terrain. The exception is Acerbis plastic fuel tanks, which are made at the company's production plant in the Czech Republic.

WORKSHOP TIP:

The cheapest kits most often have fitment problems around the airbox and radiators.

What should you prepare before replacement?

For a standard replacement, you usually only need:

• T-handle wrenches,
• a socket set,
• a few Allen keys,
• and a tray for the bolts.

It is best to place the bike on a stand so it is easy to work on.

It is also worth:

• taking a photo of the bike before disassembly,
• and keeping the bolts organised by individual part as you work. On some models, they are not all the same length.

Source: https://marketing.acerbis.it/gallery/10052-offroad/10199-mx-gear/172-mx-x-flex-two#galleryD-15

HOW TO PROCEED WITH DISASSEMBLY?

The simplest method is to work from the rear to the front.

1. Seat and side panels

Start with the seat and the side plastics around the airbox.

Do not force them. Many parts sit in rubber grommets and only need to be carefully pulled out.

2. Rear fender

Once the side panels have been removed, access to the rear fender is usually much easier.

If your bike has a light or indicators:

• remember to disconnect the wiring.

3. Radiator shrouds

These plastics are often subjected to the greatest stress and are also the most brittle.

Mounting tabs or holes most often crack around the radiators.

4. Front number plate and fender

Finish with the front of the bike.

When reassembling, proceed in reverse - from the front to the rear.

Watch the bolts

One of the most common mistakes is using ordinary bolts instead of the original ones.

Original bolts have special shoulders that spread the pressure across the plastic. If you use a standard bolt:

• the plastic will gradually deform,
• cracks will form,
• and the hole will gradually tear out.

MEFO RECOMMENDS:

If the original washers or rubber mounts are worn, it is worth replacing them at the same time as the plastics.

WHAT IF THE NUT INSERT IN THE FUEL TANK SPINS?

This is a common problem, especially on older bikes.

The brass insert in the fuel tank starts spinning and the bolt cannot be loosened.

Before you start forcing the plastic:

• try gently warming the bolt,
• use penetrating oil if necessary,
• and work carefully.

Brute force usually causes further damage.

If the insert has already come out:

• it can be bonded back in with epoxy,
• but the surrounding area must be thoroughly degreased.

New plastics = a huge difference in appearance

On an older bike, new plastics often make a bigger difference than expensive accessories.

The bike:

• looks cleaner,
• looks newer,
• and often makes you more excited to ride again.

During replacement, most riders also:

• replace the graphics,
• clean the frame,
• check the wiring,
• and deal with small jobs they normally cannot reach.

SUMMARY

Replacing the plastics is not a difficult job, but it pays to work calmly and systematically.

The most important points are:

• do not pry parts off by force,
• use the correct bolts,
• and do not underestimate the condition of old mounting tabs and rubber mounts.

If the plastics are already hard and cracked, a new kit usually makes more sense than complicated repairs.

Whether you are replacing only a fender after a fall or a complete kit, new plastics can give the bike an entirely different look and riding feel.